Think the Earth

Back to Table of Contents A Nation of Gross National Happiness

The Kingdom of Bhutan is a small nation situated southeast of the Himalayan Mountains. It is about the size of Kyushu, one of the four main islands of Japan. It has a population of approximately 700,000, and over 70% of its national land is covered by forests. Bhutan is an alpine nation surrounded by the Himalayas; its highest altitude measures 7500 meters.

Its history as a kingdom dates back to when a high priest from India, Padmasambhava, brought the teachings of Buddha to this region in the 8th century. For a few hundred years, this area was a gathering of dispersed fiefdoms lead by regional ruling families and Buddhist leaders, until it was unified as a nation under a single rule by a Buddhist lama, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, in the 17th century. The country experienced political instability during the latter half of the 18th century and 19th century, however, political conditions stabilized when Ugyen Wangchuck (the ancestor to the ruling king) became the first hereditary king of the nation in 1907, formulating the foundations for the current Kingdom of Bhutan.

After the Wangchuck Dynasty was established, Bhutan employed policies verging on national isolation focusing mainly on domestic stability; its exchange with the international community was far from active. However, since the reign of the third king began, Bhutan gradually began to open its doors to the international community, reflected by, for example, its accession to the United Nations (1971). The fourth king, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck was enthroned at age 18 (1972). He is overwhelmingly popular among his citizens, partially owing to his handsome features (?). In 1998, His Majesty dissolved the cabinet, entrusting most of the administrative authority to a forum of ministers. Many have shown interest in Bhutan because it is a unique nation that promotes a well-balanced democratization despite its monarchial status, i.e. calling for decentralization of authority and the participation of its people in the nation's decision-making.

A view of Punakha, the second capital of Bhutan, in the distance. The landscape of Bhutan, located 7000 meters above sea level, is featured by rivers that flow among the steep mountains and valleys, and the settlements established alongside them. It is quite difficult to travel between settlements.

Dzongs are characteristic buildings of Bhutan. It is a military fort, temple, and administrative institution all in one. There is one in every administrative zone. This picture is of the Punakha Dzong, the most powerful dzong in Bhutan.

Punakha served as the capital until 1955. The Punakha Dzong occupies the highest status, among all dzongs; the king's coronation ceremonies have taken place here.

A suspension bridge on the way to the dzong. Villagers and priests travel across the bridge. Many young priests live inside the dzong and pursue their studies.

Punakha is not a very large city. It still retains its rustic ambience.

Terrace fields in the suburbs of Punakha. Because there are precipitous mountains in Bhutan, it is very difficult to secure flat farmland. That is why you will find beautiful terrace fields on the slopes. Bhutan enjoys stable temperatures, and there are some regions that receive 2 harvests each year.

Back to Table of Contents What is GNH (Gross National Happiness)

A researcher from the Center of Bhutan Study (CBS), Mr. Tshering Phuntsho.

I was able to speak to Mr. Tshering Phuntsho, a CBS (Center of Bhutan Study) researcher who plays a central role in the GNH research. The concept of GNH stems from the king's words "GNH (Gross National Happiness) is more important than GNP (Gross National Product)" announced back in the late 1980s. Although the GNP backs economic development, it does not support spiritual advancement. But the people of Bhutan, a devout Buddhist nation, needed a concept for a synchronous development not only of material wealth but also of spiritual wealth.

"GNP is an index that focuses on products and services introduced to the market. Not only does it ignore issues pertaining to environmental conservation or sustainability, but it also translates negative aspects of a material civilization, such as fees required for processing traffic accidents, medical fees, and expenses incurred for measures addressing environmental pollution, into positive figures. So, even if you consume more, use more energy, and emit more greenhouse gases, this is all perceived as growth" said Mr. Phuntsho.

GNH is a concept that supplements GNP. It offers the following perspective - "growth is great, but is it good growth or bad growth?" This concept is being more and more appraised by the international community, which is witnessing the limitations of western modernization come to light. And many have wondered if we could "express it as a quantifiable, objective index like the GNP." Having said that, happiness is a subjective idea to start with, and it must differ depending on the country, religion, and region. It is not something that may be easily expressed as numbers. It is even more difficult for a Buddhist nation, for whom "happiness" is something that is rooted deep inside one's inner spirit. It seems that expressing "happiness" as an index (with numbers) was initially hard for people of Bhutan to accept. However, as time passed, many have come to accept this and to help develop GNH as an index that may be acknowledged by the international community. That is why the Center for Bhutan Study was established in 1999 to conduct concrete research.

Homepage for Center for Bhutan Study
Center for Bhutan Study

Back to Table of Contents Creating a GNH index

According to Mr. Phuntsho, the idea of happiness is being deliberated under 9 elements and an index should be completed by 2008. At this stage, it is not something that may be applied globally. The plan is to first complete an index that may be used in Bhutan. What I thought was intriguing was that CBS will be making the research results available to the international community with the hope that this would then help create an environment in which the concept of GNH would be much more widely discussed. Although GNH is an idea initiated by the King of Bhutan, it seems sound that CBS wants to rely on the wisdom of the international community to objectivize and universalize this concept.

The 9 elements are:

living standard
cultural diversity
emotional well being
health
education
time use
eco-system
community vitality
good governance

(Not in any particular order).

Actually, the first national census in Bhutan was conducted in 2005. In the census, people were asked, "Are you happy?" and 97% answered "Yes." I wondered how many people in Japan would answer "Yes" if posed the same question.

Back to Table of Contents Traveling to the depths of Bhutan- To Nabji Village

My report about Bhutan was made possible by joining the inspection conducted by the team from the "Kobunaki Ecovillage" project, which is planned in the Omihachiman City found in the Shiga Prefecture. The young staff at the G-Project Co., Ltd., the operating body of the "Kobunaki Ecovillage," was heartily welcomed by the people of Bhutan, and was fortunately given an opportunity to take part in the international exchange program in which participants visit a rural destitute village located in the inland region of Bhutan. This program was conducted by the Tarayana Foundation, an NGO presided by Her Majesty. Below you will find a report by Ms. Chie Saito, a member of the G-Project who home-stayed at this rural village.

Back to Table of Contents A great relationship between the nation and its people.

Driving a day east of Bhutan's capital, Thimphu (altitude 2360 meters), we found ourselves in a town called Trongsa, located nearly in the center of the Kingdom of Bhutan. From there we drove south for a few hours, and then went off-road traveling 9 hours up the steep slopes of the valley and down mountain paths. When we reached an altitude of about 1000 meters, the mountain path was surrounded by banana trees and laurels, and we saw the Nabji village on the mountain side far in the distance.

A panoramic view - the camera was pointed in the direction of Nabji. It is hard to see in this picture, but in this beautiful scenery of high peaks and deep valleys, there is a village bound to the precipitous slopes. (Photo: Yuki Sumihara)

The entrance to Nabji. The thickness of the symbolic tree seems to reflect the history of the village. (Photo: Yumi Sumihara)

The members of the international exchange program conducted included 7 members of staff from the Kobunaki Ecovillage, and 6 people including Mr. Nima Tshering from the Department of Information Technology of the Bhutan Government, an official from the local government with jurisdiction over Nabji and other regions, and the tour guide. Ms. Mieko Nishimizu, the initiator of this program, and the former vice president of the South Asia Region of the World Bank also kindly accompanied us.

"Are children attending schools?"
"Are people given agricultural advice on eradicating slash and burn farming?"
"Are His Majesty's political policies being accurately communicated?"

When traveling along the same road traveled by the people who have had a hand in building the nation of Bhutan, we can sense the compassion they feel towards their people even from a brief conversation in the car while on the move or with the villagers. The officials working for the local government spend over half the time each month paying visits to the villages they govern to gather information and to provide agricultural advice. (May be that is why everyone has beautiful muscular legs!!) Because communication technology has not become widespread, people often travel to the location and have opportunities to talk face to face; that is why the officials are very familiar with the state of affairs in the various villages.

All the water pipes of the village serve as showers. Actually, I think she was a bit cross because I interrupted her shower. Sorry dear! (Photo: Chie Saito)

At a village we happened to stay in en route, Ms. Nishimizu told us with a smile that "the Bhutanese government's policy is to provide water pipes and schools to every village in the country." We did certainly find square water troughs and cute golden taps in every village we visited. As we stayed in the agricultural village, it was easy to imagine how much this water has enriched the lives of the people who live in this mountainous country. Looking at the people who have gathered at the tap, I felt that perhaps this is exhibitive of the "people's happiness" that this government conceives.

And it seems that the Bhutanese government's policies really do hit home; His Majesty was extremely popular in the village that we stayed in, and we heard many say that "the country has become so much better because of the ruling king."
His Majesty and his government's compassion for their people give rise to trust and hope. Of course this does not negate the toils and worries people experience daily, but this may explain why the people of Bhutan wholeheartedly are "happy to be a citizen of Bhutan."

Every woman in the village takes part in song and dance to welcome guests to the village. (Photo: Haruna Miyagawa)

Every woman in the village takes part in song and dance to welcome guests to the village. (Photo: Haruna Miyagawa)

Back to Table of Contents Onset of Electricity and roads

What people in Nabji are hoping for right now are electricity and roads. The Bhutanese government is promoting the nationwide dissemination of electricity and roads, and it seems that Nabji is included in the construction regions covered by the next 5-year plan. "When we have electricity, I want to buy an electric rice cooker. Then I can use the time saved to finish some other chores" said the Ama (or mother) of the host family still a little doubtfully, but with hope. And the people of the village were also excited by the prospects of roads, saying "If we have roads, we can raise crops to sell in the market, and we may even get more cash revenue from, for example, more tourists."

The host family that I stayed with had 6 children, but the 3 elder children had left the village to attend high school and to work. When I visited the 13 year-old daughter was taking excellent care of her little brother and sister. The parents have borrowed money to put their children through high school, and they were worried about whether they will be able to pay such debt back.

Electricity and roads will surely change the lifestyle of this remote village. As an outsider, I selfishly thought for a moment that "I wanted things to remain as is." But, the Bhutanese government has decided to provide electricity and build roads after long deliberation.

The members of staff from the Tarayana Foundation who have fully supported this trip explained to us that, "We have often witnessed many people living in remote areas become more motivated and the productivity levels dramatically rise due to their inclusion in the monetary economy. We believe that a rewarding life for each and every citizen will lead to the wealth of a nation, and to the happiness of our people."

Ms. Nishimizu (left) who has initiated this international cooperation program and Mr. Nima (center) from the Department of Information Technology at the fair organized by the Tarayana Foundation in Thimphu. (Photo: Chie Saito)

After the program, we headed back to the capital of Thimphu to debrief the members of the Tarayana Foundation about our activities. Many of the staff at the foundation work for the central government or for universities, and volunteer their services to the activities of the foundation. Mr. Nima is also a volunteer. (Photo: Tomomi Takada)

Back to Table of Contents Listening to the people's needs is important for nation building

Much of the capital, Thimphu, is undergoing urbanization at the moment. It seems many who have come to Thimphu for sightseeing have said that they were a little turned off by the sheer number of cars driving around the city, the construction rush, and the web-like network of power lines. Internet has also been introduced over the past few years. People have said that there was great debate about the effect the wave of information brought by the Internet may have on the culture of Bhutan, but ultimately, such implementation was undertaken as His Majesty decided to "trust his people." Mr. Nima is currently standing on the borderline of what is true to Bhutan and development. He flies to various developed countries to learn about the latest information technology so that he may help formulate an information system for Bhutan, a system that is true to Bhutan.

There is a construction rush in Thimphu. Walking around the city, you will see myriads of buildings under construction. (Photo: Junichi Shiraishi)

There is no right answer for the journey to building a nation. But people have been moved by His Majesty's idea to pursue a higher objective, that of GNH rather than GDP. I felt as though Bhutan's answer to the task of augmenting the level of happiness its people feel is this. Even while such drastic transformation takes place, there must be people at the working level building the nation who will continue to listen to the voices of the people, who will continue to ask questions such as "What is happiness to our people?," "What is it that our people want/need?," and there must also be citizens that trust such people.

In December 2005, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck pronounced that in 2008 he will be handing over the throne to the Crown Prince, while also establishing a constitution, and transferring the governance of the nation to a parliamentary democratic government.

"It is my wish and prayer that... our country will achieve greater prosperity with the sun of peace and happiness shining on our people, that all the national objectives of the country and the hopes and aspirations of our people will be fulfilled and the Bhutanese people will enjoy a greater level of contentment and happiness." Excerpt from the national newspaper of Bhutan, Kuensel.

I can't help but wholeheartedly support the people of Bhutan who have inherited the will of His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who are seeking for their road to a higher ideal.

Back to Table of Contents Lastly - Small worry, high expectations

A great wave of change is about to hit Bhutan. In the past, Bhutan only accepted a few thousand tourists annually, however, in 2006, they plan to accept 40,000 people, and resorts/hotels are under construction in various regions. Housing development has progressed near the capital of Thimphu in order to support the afflux of population; crime and violence has increased; and Thimphu faces issues typically faced by metropolises. The principle policy Bhutan upholds in accordance to the concept of GNH is to promote modernization while cherishing conservation of nature and traditional culture, however, an excellent sense of balance and a strong will be required more than ever in order to prevail against the overwhelming speed of greed for economic wealth.

You will find people dressed in traditional dress in the rural areas, but in Thimphu, you will see many young people dress in western clothing.

Thimphu has been developing, yet there are no traffic lights; the traffic at the only junction in the city is regulated by policemen.

Perhaps the root of "unhappiness" is the feeling of inequality. If concepts such as money, market, and competition are introduced, some people will end up being more economically and materially well off than others, which will then give way to a feeling of winning and losing or wealth disparity. And even though nothing may have changed, more people may begin to feel "unhappy." It is true that as I walked through the streets of Thimphu, I felt mixed emotions because I sensed that there were early signs of this occurring.

I believe that the interest in GNH will continue to increase. In the near future, the Gross National Happiness (GNH) will become an index, a new measurement for wealth. When this happens, this concept will be the pride of the Bhutanese people. And many countries may shift their approach from an economy-first development to a development that takes into consideration harmony with nature and the environment and the happiness of their people.

Although I am a little anxious about the future of Bhutan, I do have very high expectations for the positive effect GNH will have on the international community.